Hollow Steel Doors Installation

Installing Welded Hollow Metal Door FramesWhat tools are needed for installation vary according to preference. Some installers prefer to shoot down the feet of the frame and so use a Ramset or Hilti. The advantage to this method is speed. The disadvantages are blowouts in the substrate and no adjustability once the trigger is pulled. Others prefer fastening with Tapcons or similar concrete screws and so use a hammerdrill and a cordless.Installing Welded Hollow Metal Door Frames This method gives tremendous adjustability, with the ability to back the screws out entirely if needed. Getting the cordless into position and tightening the screws down securely can often be cumbersome and difficult. If the screws snap off or strip out, fixing the problem can be time-consuming. My preferred method is to fasten my frames down with "mushroom head" drive anchors. All you need is a hammerdrill and an Estwing. This method is fairly fast and has some adjustability before the anchors are driven in completely.Installing Welded Hollow Metal Door Frames What I give up in removability is offset by a very low failure rate, consistency being the key to productivity.

Other tools helpful during installation are a magnetic level (I use a 6’-6” and a 2’-0”), a spreader, a large framing square, a cordless, a tape measure, and snips.

The configuration of the feet of the frame varies with the manufacture. Some are adjustable; most are not. Door clips are the same way. For our purposes I will assume that the feet are fixed (welded in place to the frame) and the clips are single piece, the same depth as the frame. Most frames call for three clips per side.

Before you put the frame in place, lay your level across the opening to see which is the high side.Installing Welded Hollow Metal Door Frames You always want to anchor the high side first. Twist your door clips into place (they should friction-fit), the top ones about 10" to 12" down from the top, the middle ones approximately even with the strike, and the bottom ones high enough to be out of the way of your hammerdrill. Place the frame into the opening. Bend the tabs of your top clip on the low side around the door stud to prevent the frame from falling out of the opening. If the door studs are fastened at the bottom, remove those screws now. Settle the frame into its final position in the opening, checking with your tape measure to make sure the gap for the drywall is equal on each side of the stud. Pay attention to the "squareness" of the frame with the wall. You don’t want the frame twisted in the opening. Scribe a pencil line on the floor around the base of the high side of your frame. This provides a reference if the frame starts to drift when you run the hammerdrill. Slide the studs on the high side of your opening out of the way, and drill your first hole. Drop an anchor in that hole before you drill your second hole on that side. This helps keep the frame in place while drilling. With both anchors in place, check the frame’s position against your pencil marks, push or pull into final alignment and drive the pins down. Move the bottom door clip on that side down to about 18" above the floor. Slide the door stud back over and re-secure it. Align the frame equally on the stud and wrap the door clip tabs around the stud. Don’t screw them off yet.

Now that the base of the high side is secure, remove any temporary spreaders (which are notoriously inaccurate), drop an accurate spreader into the opening, and snap your 2' magnetic level onto the frame head. Shim underneath the foot of the low side until your level reads perfect. Get this right, as there will be no adjustment the drywall hangers can make to correct it. What shim material you use is up to you. Some people use washers. I prefer to cut pieces of track and hammer them flat. If there is any compression in your shim material, account for that as you level the head (take the bubble slightly past level). If the floor is wildly out of level (and it happens), make sure your fasteners are long enough to go through the shims and get a good "bite" into the floor. Tuck your low side frame into the spreader, align with the wall, pencil mark the floor and drill your first hole. (You might want to remove your level before you drill, as they have a tendency to drop onto your head because of the vibrations!) Fasten this side as before, sliding the door stud over and wrapping the clip tabs. The head of the frame should now be level; this should be double-checked.

Installing Welded Hollow Metal Door Frames Installing Welded Hollow Metal Door Frames Installing Welded Hollow Metal Door Frames

Imperial USA Ltd AIW SP-HW3-3/4-SS-M Sapphire Hollow Stainless Steel Cabinet Pull, Set of 25
Home Improvement (Imperial USA Ltd)
  • Stainless steel
  • Satin nickel finish
  • Easy to install
  • Furnished with Installation Hardware

You need a New Door Installation..

2013-02-18 13:26:48 by Purple_Reign

If the door is outswinging I would assume they are using a flatbar to pop out the door from the frame. Wood bends.
If you were to Install a Metal door and Frame with security in mind the door would not dislodge so easily from the frame.
You would need to call a commercial door supplier, they could likely do the Installation.
Heavy Gauge Door and Frame with Grout filled frame with Heavy Duty Hardware, Non Removable Pin hinges. A security Plate at the door knob.
get some guuns so you can shoot them as well.
$ 1,000.00 should get it taken care of.

ASSA ABLOY Expands Offering for Behavioral Health Door Openings  — PR Newswire
Ceco Door is the world's leading manufacturer of steel doors and frames. Offering a full line of quality custom and standard hollow metal doors and frames for new and retrofit construction projects in the commercial, educational and healthcare markets.

Butterworth-Heinemann Electronic Access Control
eBooks (Butterworth-Heinemann)
Pemko Standard Perimeter Gasketing with Tek Screw, Two-Sided Tape, Mill Finish Aluminum with Black Silicone Insert, 36" L x 0.25" W x 1.125" H, 84" Door Height
BISS (Pemko Manufacturing Company, Inc.)
  • Category J gaskets for use with listed steel frames and/or classified steel covered composite, hollow metal doors rated up to and including 3 hours; wood and plastic...
  • Rigid jamb weatherstrip is shown mounted on openings with 1/16 gaps; however, each weatherstrip can seal gaps up to the depth of its seal. Seal depth is provided...
  • Stainless steel fasteners are standard. Other fasteners are available.
  • Model 303_ is available with self-adhesive, two-sided tape (TST) and tek screws (3 slotted holes per part) for easy installation. To obtain this option, add TST...
  • This perimeter gasketing is supplied with a Silicone ( S ) insert - item number S3 (available in black or white).
Dual Dual LU43PW Indoor/Outdoor Speakers (White)
Speakers (Dual)
  • Power handling: 50 watts RMS, 100 watts peak
  • 4-Inch polyelite subwoofer with rubber surround sound
  • 40mm polycone midrange and 20mm piezo tweeter
  • Sensitivity; 87dB, Frequency response: 100Hz-20kHz
  • Aluminum grill (non-removable), rotating logo for versatile mounting options, UV treated ABS enclosure
  • 4-inch woofer, 25mm poly cone midrange, and 20mm Piezo dome tweeter
  • 50 watts of RMS power, with 100 watts of peak power
  • Each speaker measures 8.25 x 5.25 x 5.25 inches (HxWxD); 1-year warranty
  • Pair of multipurpose indoor/outdoor speakers in black for permanent or temporary outdoor use
  • Wall-mountable, UV-treated ABS enclosure; mounting brackets included
LCN LCN 4041-EDA-AL Door Closer with Extra Duty Parallel Arm, Aluminum Powder Coat Finish
Home Improvement (LCN)
  • For Aluminum, hollow metal or wood swinging doors and frames
  • Adjustable for interior doors to 5 0 and exterior doors to 4 0
  • Nonhanded arm mounts pull side or top jamb with shallow reveal, Aluminum Powder Coat Finish
  • Includes regular arm, plastic cover, self reaming and tapping screws
  • Parallel arm features forged, solid steel main and forearm for potentially abusive installations

Related posts: